Seasonal Jobs · 9 October 2026 · 5 min read

Clearing Leaves from Lawns and Borders (and What to Do with Them)

Every October the same thing happens: the garden looks lovely for a fortnight, then the leaves come down all at once and you wonder where to start. Clearing leaves is not glamorous, but it matters. Done well, it protects your lawn and paths, and the leaves themselves can become one of the best free soil conditioners you will ever make.

Why leaves need clearing from some places, not others

Leaves are a natural part of a garden's cycle, so the aim is not to remove every last one. The aim is to clear them from the places where they cause harm and to put them to use elsewhere.

Lawns. A blanket of wet leaves blocks light, holds moisture against the grass and encourages fungal disease and yellow, weak growth. Leaves left for weeks can kill patches of grass entirely. Lawns should be cleared regularly.

Paths, patios and driveways. Wet leaves become slippery and stain paving. Clear them regularly for safety, and so that algae do not get a foothold. If a patio is already green and slippery, our guide to jet washing patios safely can help.

Gutters and drains. Blocked gutters overflow and can cause damp problems on walls. Clear them in late autumn, once most leaves are down, using a stable ladder or, ideally, a gutter-cleaning tool from the ground. If you are not comfortable with heights, hire someone.

Ponds. Leaves rotting in a pond release gases and use up oxygen. Net the pond or skim leaves off regularly.

Borders and beds. Here, leaves can usually stay. A light covering acts as a mulch and shelter for wildlife like beetles, frogs and hedgehogs. Remove thick, wet layers from smaller plants, and especially from the crowns of plants that dislike winter wet, such as alpines, and clear them away from evergreens in pots and from lawn edges.

The tools

You do not need much:

A spring-tine (lawn) rake is the classic and the most gentle on lawns. A wider head covers ground faster.
Leaf grabs (the handheld scoops) make picking up piles easier.
A leaf blower or vacuum speeds up large areas, but they are noisy, so be considerate about when you use them. A blower works best on dry leaves, on paths and gravel, and less well on wet, matted ones.
A tarpaulin or old compost sack to drag the leaves to the heap saves on trips with the barrow.
A lawn mower with a collection box can mulch light leaf fall into small pieces while cutting the grass.

Always wear gloves and, if you are disturbing dusty old leaves, consider a dust mask, as damp leaf piles can contain mould spores.

Rake from the outside in

Work in sections, raking leaves into lines or piles and then collecting. Work with the wind where possible. Do the job on a dry day, because wet leaves are heavier and clump together, and walking on a wet lawn compacts it. Little and often beats waiting until all the leaves have dropped, particularly on a lawn.

Making leaf mould

This is the best thing you can do with leaves. Leaf mould is a dark, crumbly, fibrous material that improves soil structure and water retention. It is ideal as a mulch or for mixing into potting compost. It is made not by heat but by slow fungal breakdown, so it takes time - generally one to two years - but it needs almost no effort.

Gather leaves, ideally damp. If they are dry, water them.
Put them in a wire mesh bin, a bin made from four posts and chicken wire, or in black bin bags with a few holes punched in them and a splash of water.
Compress them slightly, and leave them in a shady corner.
Check occasionally in spring and summer for dryness and water if needed.

Oak, beech, hornbeam and birch leaves make particularly good leaf mould. Leathery evergreen leaves such as laurel, holly and sweet chestnut break down slowly, so shred them first or compost them separately. Never use leaves that are diseased, such as those with rose black spot or apple scab, in a heap that you will spread around susceptible plants. Many gardeners bin or burn those or put them in the council green waste.

Leaf mould is not a rich fertiliser. It is more of a soil improver, so you might still need to feed hungry plants.

Using leaves right away

You do not have to wait for leaf mould:

Mulch around shrubs and trees with a layer of shredded leaves a few centimetres thick, keeping them clear of stems.
Add them to your compost heap as a "brown" material to balance wet green material such as grass clippings. See our post on composting at home.
Pile them in a quiet corner or under a hedge as a wildlife shelter. A leaf pile is a favourite place for hedgehogs, so check before you move or burn any pile.

Bonfires

Burning leaves smokes a lot, annoys neighbours and can breach local nuisance rules, and hedgehogs may be hiding in the pile. Composting or making leaf mould is better. If you must burn, only burn dry material, check the pile for animals first, and keep it away from fences and hedges.

Using a mower on leaves

On a lawn with only a light covering, running the mower over leaves with the box on is fast. Shredded leaves can go straight on the compost heap. It works best when the leaves are dry and the grass is not too long. With a thick covering, rake first.

A reasonable routine

Rake the lawn and clear paths once a week, or after a heavy leaf fall.
Clear gutters and drains in early to mid November.
Collect and store leaves for leaf mould.
Keep a few piles for wildlife.

Once the lawn is clear and the beds are tidy, it is an ideal moment for planting spring bulbs and giving your lawn its autumn care.